Portugal, Morocco, Spain, 2022
When I visited Lisbon, SIntra, Seville and Granada as part of a cruise, I realized that I needed a lot more time to really see these places. In September, 2022, I took a trip to Portugal, Spain and Morocco.
I flew to Lisbon and picked up the one day Lisboa Card I had bought online, from the tourist office at the airport. I went to the metro station at the airport, and purchased a Viva Viagem card, for 0.50. Each Viva Viagem card can be loaded with one type of ticket only - single, return, 24 hour pass, zapping, or set of 10 journeys. With Zapping, you load the card with a minimum of 3.00, in multiples of 5 and it can be re-loaded when empty. I loaded the card with a 24 hour pass for 6.45. This pass is good for all metro, tram, bus, funicular and lifts. I took the metro to Anjos station, which was the closest to my hotel. It was drizzling when I came out of the metro station, so I got a little wet as I walked to the hotel. I reached the hotel around 10:30, which was too early to check in. I left my luggage there, took my umbrella out of my checked bag, and went sightseeing.
Lisbon is a very hilly city, with steep, narrow roads. There are stairs, funiculars and lifts that connect the lower parts of the city with the upper parts. Trams are a part of public transportation. I walked around a little, trying to find Igreja Anjos which was supposed to be on the same street, but I did not find it. I turned right on Rua Maria Andrade, then left on Rua Maria. The bus stop for 13B was on the left. I took it to the National Pantheon. I bought the entrance ticket for 4.00. There is a lovely view of the floor from the upper floors. There are also great views of the city from the terrace at the top.
I then walked to Igreja Sao Vicente de Fora and went inside for free. Then I walked to Lisbon Cathedral and had lunch at a small café. The ticket for the cathedral is 5.00. After visiting the Cathedral, I walked to Praca do Comercio. I walked through the Augusta Arch, along Rua Augusta with its many outdoor restaurants, to the Santa Justa Lift. The viewpoint at the top was closed, but I took the lift to the top and back down again.
I walked to Pink Street and then to the Bica Lift. There are two funiculars. One is kept inside and is free of graffiti. The other is covered in graffiti. I took the funicular to the top, took a few photos and came back down. I then walked to Time Out Market, where I had dinner. After dinner, I walked to the Cais do Sodre metro station, and took the metro back to my hotel.
The second day, my 24 hour pass was still valid, so I used it to take the metro to Rossio. Outside the metro station, I crossed the square to the Rossio train station. The 24 hour pass doesn’t cover the train to Sintra, so I bought another Viva Viagem card for 0.50. This time I loaded it with a Zapping ticket for 10.00. Metro, tram and train tickets are cheaper when the Zapping card is used. I took the train to Sintra. I got off at Sintra, not Portela de Sintra which is just before. Right outside the station is the stop for Bus 434 which provides a loop between the station, Moorish Castle, Pena Palace and National Palace. After I purchased the bus ticket, I realized I had bought a hop on hop off ticket that was valid for all buses in Sintra for the day. I think there was another cheaper ticket for a single loop, but maybe that has been discontinued.
I got off at Moorish Castle. I had purchased the ticket online. I walked along the ramparts and to the top of the 3 towers. There is a beautiful view of Pena Palace. When I was done, I thought of walking to Pena Palace, but when I got back to the main road, the 434 bus was just pulling up, so I took that to Pena Palace. I had bought the Pena Palace ticket online. The ticket covers the park grounds and the palace. Entry to the palace is for a specific time. I had picked a time of 3:30, to make sure I would have enough time to visit Moorish Castle. I wanted to have lunch at the cafeteria, but they would not let me in to the buildings until 3:30. I decided to skip lunch and walked in the park grounds till it was time to enter the palace. My ticket also included the tram from the entrance to the palace and back.
I took bus 434 back to the station and then took the train back to Rossio. I walked to Rua Augusta and had dinner at one of the restaurants there. I then took the metro back to my hotel.
The third day, I activated my one day Lisboa card, and took the metro to Cais do Sodre, followed the signs for the trains, and took the train towards Cascais. The Lisboa card covers all metro, bus, tram, train, lifts, and funiculars. I got off the train at Alges and walked back in the direction of Lisbon. In the distance, I could see the Belem Tower. This was a long walk. In retrospect, I think it would have been better to take the tram, even though the train is quicker. The Lisboa Card covered the entrance ticket to Belem Tower. There wasn’t a line so I was able to get into Belem Tower quickly.
From Belem Tower, I followed the paved path to the right, towards the Monument of Discoveries. Jeronimos is across the street. The Lisboa Card covers the entrance ticket to the Monastery, but there was a long line to enter. When I came out of the Monastery, I thought I would be able to go into the Church, which is free, but there was another long line. After leaving the church, I had planned on going to the Coach Museum and then to St George’s Castle. Since I was had to wait a long time to enter the Monastery and then the church, and I had already seen the Royal coaches in London, I decided to skip lunch and the Coach Museum. As it turns out, I may have had enough time to see the Coach Museum and St George’s!
I crossed the street and walked left, in the direction of Lisbon, to the tram stop. Tram 15 and 15E both go to Praca da Figueira. I got off at Praca da Figueira and took bus 737 right to the gates of St George’s Castle.
I had purchased the ticket online. After leaving St George’s I had an ice cream, then took bus 737 back to Praca da Figueira. I then took the metro to Praca dos Restauradores and walked to the Gloria Funicular. I took that up to the view point Miradouro de Sao Pedro Alcantera for a great view of St George’s. I took the funicular back down, took the metro to Rossio, then had dinner at another restaurant in Rua Augusta, and took the metro back to my hotel. I used the Lisboa Card the entire day.
The fourth day, I again used my Lisboa card to take the metro to Rossio and the train to Sintra. When I tried to swipe the Lisboa card on exiting the Sintra station, it had already expired, so I had to use my Zapping card. This time, I bought a 5.00 ticket on the bus 435, which is a loop between the station, Quinta de Regaleira and Monserrate.
I got off at Quinta de Regaleira and bought a ticket for 5.00. After spending a couple of hours there, I took bus 435 to Monserrate. I had bought the ticket to Monserrate online. After leaving Monserrate, I took bus 435 thinking it would take me to the National Palace. But, it took me back to the station. I asked if I could use that same ticket to go to the National Palace. The driver said he would drop me off at the National Palace, but he dropped me off a little further away and showed me the way to walk to the National Palace.
After leaving the National Palace, since I had skipped lunch again, I bought an ice cream as I waited for bus 434 to take me back to the station. I’m not sure if the bus 435 ticket is valid on bus 434, but the driver did not pay attention. I took the train back to Rossio, using my Zapping card. At Rossio metro station, my Zapping card only had 1.00 left, so I re-loaded my original 24 hour pass card with another 24 hour pass. I again ate at a restaurant on Rua Augusta, then took the metro back to my hotel.
The fifth day, I used my 24 hour pass to take the metro to Martim Moniz. I waited in the line for the famous Tram 28. I had to wait for the next tram, in order to be able to get a seat. I got off at Basilica Estrela and went inside, which was free. I then took Tram 28 back to Martim Moniz, and took the metro to my hotel. I checked out, took the metro to the airport and flew to Marrakech.
In Marrakech, I stayed at a Riad in the old Medina. Riads are old homes that have been converted to hotels. Rooms overlook an inner courtyard. The hotel sent a taxi to pick me up for 15.00 Euros. After checking in, I went out to find the main square, Jamaa el Fnaa, to exchange currency and have dinner. The Medina is a labyrinth of narrow streets that all look alike. The streets are too narrow for cars. They have a lot of pedestrians, motor cycles and a few tuk tuks. There are very few street signs. The hotel had warned against asking locals for directions, because they will accompany you and then ask for a lot of money. I was not able to find the square, and since it was getting dark, I decided to go back to the hotel. After a few wrong turns, I eventually got back to the hotel. I changed currency at the front desk, then went out again, to have dinner.
The sixth day, I made another attempt to find the main square. After a few wrong turns I got there. I realized that it would take me too long to find all the places I wanted to see, so I hired a guide in the square. For 10 Euros, to be paid at the end, he agreed to take me on foot, to all the places I wanted to see. He spoke a little English and French. At each place, he waited outside while I bought the entrance ticket and went inside. He was not a real guide, so he could not explain anything about the history. Since I was not going to pay till the end, I knew he would be waiting for me.
He took me to Bahia Palace, El Badi Palace, Saadian Tombs, Koutoubia Mosque, and Dar Si Said Museum, He asked a few times if I wanted to take a massage or ride a camel. He probably gets a commission on those things. I declined, and after about 5 hours, we came back to the square, where I paid him, then had lunch.
I had forgotten to tell him about Bab Agnaou Gate, so I went there by myself after lunch, then came back to the square. There are a lot of streets that lead off the square and I could not remember which one I had come in by, so I did not know how to get back to the hotel. I finally took a tuk tuk from the square to the hotel for 5 Euros.
The next day, I checked out and left my luggage at the hotel, then went to see the Ben Youssef Madrasa. Again, I took a few wrong turns before I found it. I then went back to the hotel, then continued on to the square to have lunch. This time, I took a photo of the street I used to enter the square, so I would be able to find it to go back to the hotel. I still took a few wrong turns before I got back to the hotel. I had about an hour before I had to leave for the airport. I sat in the hotel till my taxi arrived to take me to the airport and my flight to Seville.
I arrived in Seville at 10:15 at night. I followed the signs to the airport bus. The signs start out at the top, then continue on the ground. There is a ticket machine to buy the bus ticket for 4.00. The ticket can also be bought from the driver on the bus, for cash. The round-trip ticket is only valid for a few hours, so I bought a one-way ticket. I needed to get off at the Torre del Oro. I knew what it looked like, so I was able to tell when it was my stop. From there, it was a short walk to my hotel. There were a lot of people walking around in Seville, even at that late hour, so I felt safe walking to the hotel.
Early next morning, I walked to Torre del Oro, took a photo, then walked to Plaza Espana. After taking a few photos, I walked to Alcazar. The ticket lets you in at any time, but the entrance to the Royal Apartments is for a specific time slot. They only let a few people to the Royal Apartments, in each time slot, and are very strict about the entrance time on your ticket. After seeing a little of the rest of Alcazar, I started looking for the entrance to the Royal Apartments, because you have to be in line 10 minutes early. The Royal Apartments are very beautiful, but photography is not allowed. They have lockers to store your backpacks just outside the entrance. After leaving the Royal Apartments, I continued seeing the rest of Alcazar.
After leaving Alcazar, I grabbed a quick lunch and ate it sitting on the steps of the Cathedral. I then went into the Cathedral. I had bought the ticket to the Cathedral and the Giralda. The Giralda is a series of about 35 ramps inside the bell tower, that take you all the way to the top. There is no access to the roof, but there are windows all along the way. I then walked through the interior of the impressive Cathedral. After leaving the Cathedral.
I walked to Casa de Pilatos. It was a little confusing, but I eventually found it without taking any wrong turns. My phone battery was almost dead, so I had to rush through, then walk back to the hotel to charge my phone. I then walked back to the Cathedral, as I had booked the Roof Top tour for 7:30. After that, I had dinner, then walked back to my hotel.
I had booked train tickets to Granada for 7:30 in the morning with the return at 5:30. I booked a taxi to the train station, through the hotel. I reached Granada at about 10:00. I had planned on taking a taxi from the station to Alhambra, but there were no taxis waiting, and there was a long line of people waiting for a taxi. I started to walk, and after some time, I came to a roundabout. I looked at all the bus stops around the roundabout, and found one that went to Alhambra, so I took that bus.
At Alhambra, my ticket was good all day, but the ticket to Nasrid Palace is for a specific time slot. I started with the Generalife Gardens. When I came to the Generalife Palace, I realized that I may not have time to see the palace and get to Nasrid Palace on time, so I skipped the Generalife Palace and went to Nasrid Palace. When I was finished with Nasrid Palace, I walked back to the Generalife Palace. From there I went to Alcazaba and the palace of Carlos V. I took the same bus back and got off at the roundabout. As I walked back to the train station, I saw a taxi, and was able to flag it down.
Lisbon
Augusta Arch 001-002: Augusta Arch looking towards the waterfront and towards Baixa
Basilica Estrela 001-007: Basilica Estrela
Belem Tower 001-005: Torre de Belem, Belem Tower, a fortification that served as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. It was the point of embarkation and disembarkation for Vasco de Gama and other Portuguese explorers. It was built on a small island on the Tagus river. Bica Lift 001-002: Bica Lift Funicular goes from waterfront to Barrio Alto. It was initially built in 1892 and worked with the rack, rail and water counter balance system. Later, it worked with steam. It was electrified in 1927
Cathedral 001-006: Lisbon Cathedral, the oldest church in Lisbon.
Gloria Funicular 001: Ascensor da Gloria, Gloria Funicular goes from downtown and Praco dos Restauradores metro station, to Barrio Alto and the Miradoura de Sao Pedro Alcantera viewpoint
Jeronimos 001-020: Jeronimos Monastery and Church. Built on the site of a hermitage, founded by Prince Henry the Navigator, it was where Vasco de Gama and his crew spent their last night in Portugal, in prayer, before leaving for India. The church contains the tomb of Vasco de Gama, whose remains were brought to Lisbon from Kochi, India where he died.
Lisbon 001-005: Photos of Lisbon. 003 is right outside the cathedral, 004 is a movie theatre, 005 is the a Cristo Rei statue, inspired by the Christ the Redeemer status in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and representing Portugal’s religious gratitude for avoiding the horrors of WWII. Monument of Discoveries: This commemorates the Age of Discoveries in Portugal. It represents the prow of a caravel, a small sailing ship. Leading the ship is Prince Henry the Navigator followed by other great Portuguese discoverers like Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan.
National Pantheon 001-008: Panteao Nacional, National Pantheon. Built on an octagonal floor plan centered on a Greek Cross, it holds the tombs and cenotaphs of famous figures like Vasco de Gama.
Pink Street 001:
Praca do Comercio 001:
Rossio Square 001-003: Has the column of Pedro IV in the center, with two fountains. It is paved with a waved mosaic that looks uneven, but is perfectly even.
Rua Augusta 001:
Santa Justa Lift 001: Connects Baixa to Barrio Alto. There is a view point at the top, that was temporarily closed.
St George 001-011: Castelo de Sao Jorge, St George’s Castle, remains of an 11th century fortification, with access to the ramparts and towers. Has great views of the city. 001 was taken from the Miradoura de Sao Pedro Alcantera viewpoint.
Time Out Market 001: Food hall with a large variety of food options. Cash is not accepted, only credit cards. The food is not necessarily cheap, but there are a lot of selections.
Tram 28 001: Perhaps the most famous tram in Lisbon. Starts in Martim Moniz. There is usually a long line of people waiting to board it. If you don’t get a seat, it is not possible to look out through the windows.
Vicente de Fora 001-003: Igreja e Mosteiro de Sao Vicente de Fora, church and monastery of Vicente de Fora, built in the 17th century. Sintra
Monserrate 001-015: Palace and extensive grounds. I had purchased tickets online.
Moorish Castle 001-009: Castelo dos Mouros, Castle of the Moors. Built during the Moorish era, 8th to 12th century, this castle defended the entire region. The Christian Crusaders stormed and took the castle. Visitors can climb the battlements and 3 defensive towers, I had purchased tickets online.
National Palace 001-013: Located in the historic center of Sintra, a 10 minute walk from the train station. Bus 434 also goes there from the station. I had purchased tickets online.
Pena Palace 001-029: Palacio de Pena, Pena Palace, consists of a palace and an extensive park. The ticket covers the park and the palace, but entry to the palace is for specific time slots. Tickets can also be bought for a tram from the entrance to the palace. The exterior of the palace is beautiful with vibrant colors. I had purchased tickets online. I reached here at about 1:00 and my palace entrance was for 3:30. I did not have time to see the entire park. 001 was taken from the Moorish Castle.
Quinta da Regaleira 001-019: I was not able to buy tickets online, but there wasn’t much of a line to buy tickets. There is a romantic palace, a chapel, and a park that features lakes, grottoes, fountains and a well.
Marrakech
Bab Agnaou Gate 001: One of the best known gates of Marrakech
Bahia Palace 001-011: A 19th century palace with rooms decorated with stuccos, paintings, and mosaics.
Ben Youssef Madrasa 001-007: At its height, it was the largest Islamic college in Morocco. It served as a center for learning, worship and community interaction. It was able to accommodate upwards of 800 students.
El Badi Palace 001-004: It is the ruins of a palace. 004 is the Minbar of the Kutubiyya Mosque, similar to a pulpit, which is displayed here, and cannot be photographed.
Koutoubia Mosque 001-003: Largest mosque in Marrakech. The minbar, similar to a pulpit is displayed in El Badi Palace and cannot be photographed.
Saadian Tombs 001-012: A historical royal necropolis.
Seville
Real Alcazar 001-025 : This is the Royal Palace of Seville, built by Castilian Christians for Christian king, Peter of Castille. It was built on the site of an Abbadid Muslim Alcazar or residential fortress that was destroyed after the Christian conquest of Seville. The Spanish Royal family still uses this when they come to Seville. This is incredible. The Royal Apartments are beautiful but cannot be photographed.
Casa de Pilatos 001-010 : This is the second most beautiful place in Seville. The owner made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem while the house was being built. On his return, he replicated the ‘Way of the Cross’ from this house to a spot outside the city walls. The original Way of the Cross was from Pilate’s house to Calvary, so this house started to be known as Pilate’s House.
Cathedral Ext 001-019 : Exterior shots of Seville Cathedral
Cathedral Giralda 001-008 : Seville Cathedral used to be a mosque. The minaret of the mosque is now the bell tower of the cathedral. When this was a mosque, they needed to go to the top of the minaret, several times a day, to issue the call to prayer. They built about 35 ramps inside the minaret, in the shape of a square and rode up on horseback. Today, tourists can climb these ramps, which are steep and long, all the way to top, approximately 10 floors. There is no access to the roof, but there are windows all along the way, with great views.
Cathedral Int 001-022 : Interior of the cathedral
Cathedral Roof Top 001-020 : There are a few daily Roof Top Tours, in English and Spanish, for those who want to walk on the roof top. You climb a spiral staircase, all the way to the roof. You also walk in passages in the upper parts of the cathedral, behind the altars. The entire climb is about 10 floors, but it’s done in 3 stages, at a reasonable pace, so it’s not so bad. After each stage, you walk along a section of the roof, catch your breath, take photos, then resume your climb.
Plaza Espana 001-006 : Plaza Espana is a square built for the Ibero-American exposition of 1929
Seville 001-006 : 001 is the Parroquia de Santa Cruz, 002 is the Bullring, 003 is the Palacio Arzobispal, residence of the archbishop, 004 is the Palacio de San Telmo, formerly the University for Navigators, now the seat of the presidency of the Andalusian Autonomous Government Torre del Oro : A dodecagonal military watchtower built to control access to Seville. It served as a prison during the Middle Ages. The name is from the golden shine it projects on the river, due to its building materials, a mix of mortar, lime and hay Granada
Alhambra 001-017 : Alhambra is an Islamic fortress and palace complex. 001 is the Puerta de las Granadas or Gate of the Pomegranates. 004 is the Palace of Carlos V. 005 is the inner courtyard of the palace of Carlos V. 013-015 are the ruins of the Alcazaba, the military fortress. Generalife 001-014 : Gardens of Alhambra
Granada 001-006 : 001 is the Monumento a Isabel la Catolica, a monument depicting a meeting between Queen Isabella the Catholic Queen and Christopher Columbus. 002 is the Corral del Carbon, the oldest monument left by the Arabs. Used as a warehouse, then adapted by Christians for stage performances. 003 is a street that was once an ancient Arab marketplace. 004 is the Town Hall. 005 is the Justice of Andalusia. 006 is the Parroquia de San Gil y Santa Ana the parish church of San Gil and Santa Ana.
Nasrid Palace 001-031 : A complex of palaces and the royal residence of the kings of Granada
Royal Chapel 001-005 : The burial place of the Spanish Monarchs, Queen Isabelle I and King Ferdinand, the Catholic Monarchs
